Lady Elgar Log

2007-04-21T12:16:00.000+02:00

Since selling Lady Elgar and leaving the Cut I have not been idle.
Apart from enjoying the beautiful Shropshire countryside I've spent much time working on my new book, Living the Dream, which has now been published and tells the story of our days aboard Lady Elgar.
The book is available direct from me via my website www.trevorpavitt.co.uk or from High Line Yachting at Iver, The Uxbridge Boat Center or Limekiln Chandlery at Compton.

Here is my introduction to the book just to whet your appetite:

I sit staring at a pile of six rather battered logbooks.

Four of them are red and of uniform size – about nine inches by seven in old money. The other two are black and somewhat larger.
I open the first, the most battered, and find that on the opening page I have copied out some lines from The Prophet by Kahlil Gibran, writer and mystic so beloved of the hippie generation:

‘We wanderers, ever seeking the lonelier way, begin no day where we have ended another day; and no sunrise finds us where sunset left us.’

Despite its apparent illogicality (were we supposed to travel at night?), this passage reflects the essence of the dream we had back in the early 1990s when we conceived the idea of living on a canal boat and wandering the length and breadth of England.

Of course it didn’t quite work out like that. The log books track the practical progress of our dream and remind me that circumstances often forced us to remain in one place for long periods. The slow-moving, golden days of our imagination were few and far between whilst much time was spent in patient effort as we battled against winds and rain or struggled with recalcitrant locks. Nevertheless, despite long periods on our home mooring the logbooks reveal that we were able, in the course of some ten years, to cover more than 5,000 miles of waterway and negotiate over 4,000 locks. More importantly, though often not recorded, we met fascinating and eccentric people and made many good friends. We were able to observe our homeland from a unique viewpoint, whether it was those parts of it, almost unchanged since medieval times, where we slept with the knowledge that there was probably not another human being within a mile of our mooring, or the teeming cities where the canal threads its way through a fading industrial landscape and city workers rush about, late for appointments, babbling into mobile ‘phones, obsessed with details of a life that seemed to us of supreme superficiality.

As I attempt to extract a coherent account of our days aboard Lady Elgar from the carefully ruled pages of distances, timings and miscellaneous notes I am aware of the fact that never, even at the nadir of our fortunes, did I ever regret embarking upon our great adventure.

My only regret, as I stare at the pile of battered books that represent those ten, wonderful years is that we were eventually obliged to abandon a lifestyle that suited us so supremely well.

This is the story of our dream.

2004-07-06T22:18:00.000+02:00

We arrived back at our mooring on the Slough Arm yesterday. As always it’s nice to be back; to be welcomed by friends and to have easy access to a water tap (to say nothing of shore power and a BT telephone line – how quick that seems after 9600 bps on the mobile). But, of course, it is impossible to replace the excitement of never quite knowing where you will end up next day.
This has been one of the few trips on which we have had absolutely no technical problems of any kind (I did have to work on the generator before we left but, having fixed it the genny has behaved faultlessly).
And so, goodbye, Canals. We have spent ten immensely happy years exploring the English waterways and shall always look back upon our time afloat with great pleasure. We also have the sneaking feeling that we have enjoyed the very best of the canals – when a large number of them have been made available for cruising but before, as seems likely, regulation, bureaucracy and the sheer volume of boats destroy the very freedom which so many of us are seeking.
If you have been, thanks for reading my reports.

Yesterday’s run: 8.1 miles and 3 locks in 3.6 hours
Total for this trip: 436.3 miles and 399 locks in 222.3 hours
Total in our ownership: 5354.6 miles and 4123 locks in 2800.7 hours

2004-07-04T21:17:00.000+02:00

At Denham Country Park (above Denham Lock)
We are enjoying a couple of days at this our final mooring before returning to our base at Iver on the Slough Arm.
A combination of family reasons and our own feeling that, at the age of 65, we should settle down in a community whilst we are still young enough to participate in local affairs has persuaded us to bring to a close our ten-year idyll on the canals. During this time we have covered over 5,000 miles and worked more than 4,000 locks.
Canal friendships are rather like army friendships: an intense bond is created through mutual endeavour. We still communicate with a number of people whom we originally met quite casually whilst sharing a lock. We shall greatly miss this camaraderie of the canals.
I try not to be anthropomorphic but it is impossible, after so many years spent fitting her out and then living on her, not to feel that Lady Elgar has a personality of her own. Like a well-bred horse she has her idiosyncrasies but, having mastered them, we feel absolutely confident of our ability to handle her in all situations (although certain bits of reversing still occasionally go wrong!). She has carried us safely along almost every navigable waterway in England; from Shepperton in the South to Skipton in the North, Bristol in the West and Lincoln in the East. It will be sad to part with her but, like the famous canal writer Tom Rolt, I shall try to walk away and not look back.

2004-07-02T22:05:00.000+02:00

Cassiobury to Denham
We are now into the final stages of our cruise.
Once again we rose late and did not leave our mooring until 0930. Cruised down to the water point above Cassio Bridge Lock and then stopped at Bridgewater Basin to take on diesel (125 litres @ 37p).
Our day was punctuated by some quite heavy, squally showers but nothing to trouble us seriously. Very light traffic all day with only a handful of boats passed.
Having moored outside Tesco at Batchworth to take on supplies we chugged on uneventfully, passing a small arm which is now used for mooring and is known to the locals as “The Stink Hole” because of the malodorous atmosphere created there by the nearby sewage farm.
Pressed on to the moorings above Denham Deep Lock, beside the Country Park, where we have so often moored before.
My sadness on this our final cruise was much alleviated by César Franck and Stella Artois!
Day’s run: 8.5 miles and 9 locks in 4.7 hours.

2004-07-01T22:54:00.000+02:00

King’s Langley to Cassiobury Park
After the exertions of yesterday we took our time before leaving this morning.
I have already described this section of the Grand Union in my earlier reports covering our outward journey; nothing much to add apart from the fact that the Ovaltine factory has still not been demolished and the donkey at Hunton Bridge is BACK. Having assumed that he was gone for ever we were pleased to see him on his patch again and he greeted us with his usual enthusiastic honking.
Had a somewhat trying morning as we were sharing with a couple of academics who were bringing their boat from Cambridge to London. Charming people, but oh so slow in their reactions. Amazing how many people fail to realize that a narrow boat pivots near the centre and it is often more important to think about what the stern is doing than to worry about the bow.
At Iron Bridge Lock in Cassiobury Park we met an old friend from Iver who is making his way (very slowly, as he told us) to Autherley Junction. He was interested to hear about our travels since we last met. We then said goodbye (rather gratefully I’m ashamed to say) to our companions and moored up for the day below the lock, where we were able to watch the divine Sharapova win her Ladies Singles semi-final at Wimbledon.
Day’s run: 4.8 miles and 9 locks in 3.3 hours

2004-06-30T21:44:00.000+02:00

Cowroast to King’s Langley
Every day now seems to have an elegiac quality about it. As we chug down the South Grand Union for the last time almost every lock holds some memory for us but my mood of nostalgic regret was tempered by having to work hard helping our new friends on Nb Shiraz learn the ropes. They are completely new to the canals and set out from Braunston at the weekend with the intention of reaching Apsley by Thursday; rather an ambitious target for a couple, no longer young, who have not handled a narrow boat before. We joined up with them at the Soulbury Three and they have been immensely grateful for our help although I have to say that they have demonstrated considerably ability (although not great nimbleness of foot!). Having ourselves received a huge amount of help and advice from other boaters over the years we are only too pleased to reciprocate now that we are quite experienced.
Having had an excellent meal (including a bottle of champagne) with Ian and Hilary we set off at 0730 this morning to tackle the heavily locked section of canal down through Northchurch to Berkhamsted and then on to Hemel Hempstead.
At the Dudswell Locks we met the team of Wyvern boats on a corporate team-building exercise whom we had seen setting out at Leighton. They were now on their way back having, they said, greatly enjoyed themselves. Presumably they are now working like a well-oiled machine!
We had a good run down to Berko and then pressed on to Boxmoor where I Heard the sound of a Lister JP2 and the Josher “Vulcan” appeared, a famous old boat but now somewhat in need of refurbishment. She was on her way to Braunston (where else?).
We took on water and disposed of various forms of waste at Apsley before saying goodbye to Shiraz and her crew.
Dropped down the Nash Mills locks and moored, as we nearly always do, near the confluence with the River Gade at King’s Langley.
Definitely one of our harder days – I was very glad to get into the shower!
Day’s run: 9.1 miles and 24 locks in 7.8 hours

2004-06-29T22:54:00.000+02:00

Slapton to Cowroast
A good day but a tiring one!
Set out in company with Ian and Hilary on Nb Shiraz and travelled all the way to Cowroast with them.
Having passed through the Ivinghoe and Seabrook locks we arrived at Marsworth where the main flight of locks is always rather hard work. Mary and Ian performed the delicate feat of going into several of them together (without being breasted-up). At one point I watched as they drifted apart coming round the corner, closed in on each other again and made a perfect entry into the lock without so much as brushing it – poetry in motion! Even a knowledgeable gongoozler conceded that it was “a nice piece of driving”.
Having got to the top of the locks we crossed the Tring summit for 18th and, sadly, the last time.
Moored at Cowroast ready for an assault on the long series of locks which carry the canal down to Apsley where our companions Ian and Hilary need to be by Thursday.
Day’s run: 8.9 miles and 16 locks in 6.2 hours.

2004-06-28T23:16:00.000+02:00

It has been pointed out to me that Cosgrove to Fenny Compton is a pretty long day’s run! Of course I meant Fenny *Stratford*; alcohol takes its toll!
Incidentally I can reveal to you that the affix Fenny comes from the Old English Fennig, meaning marshy – not a lot of people know that!
We enjoyed our weekend. Karen left us on Friday night but we had an unexpected visit on Sunday from old boating friends who are over here from their home in Spain. Fortunately we had a joint of pork in the fridge so Mary was able to knock up an excellent roast lunch for us all and much good chat followed.

Fenny Stratford to Slapton
Having taken on water at Fenny we passed through Stoke Hammond Lock and enjoyed pleasant cruising to the three locks at Soulbury. Here we met Ian and Hilary, a rather nice South African couple on their boat Shiraz. They are inexperienced but very keen to learn and they followed us to Leighton where we all visited Tesco.
Just after we had moored at Leighton, three boats from the nearby Wyvern hire base came past with large crews on board. Apparently they were all on a “corporate team-building” exercise and were going to Berkhamsted and back. It’s easy to sneer – especially if, like me, you are long retired – but I actually think the two days on a narrow boat living together and doing the Marsworth and Berko locks is probably a very good test of one’s ability to work as a team and would be beneficial to their company.
As on our way up we moored below Slapton Lock on the 65 foot length of Armco which we have always regarded as our personal property!
Day’s run: 10.7 miles and 8 locks in 5.6 hours.

2004-06-25T20:30:00.000+02:00

Cosgrove to Fenny Stratford
An easy-paced day. Left our pleasant mooring at Cosgrove, sauntered down to Wolverton and began the long haul around Milton Keynes. Fortunately the wind has now dropped and we enjoyed quite a bit of sunshine.
Stopped at Tesco’s by Bridge 71 where Mary and Karen formed a provisioning party. They returned heavily laden with vegetables to ward off scurvy; also plentiful supplies of Stella Artois and Grenache Shiraz.
The run around Milton Keynes is not unpleasant but one could hardly call it exciting. There seemed to be a lot more moored boats than we have seen before but moving traffic was very light indeed with only three or four boats passing us all morning. We reached Fenny at about 1400.

Whilst on the move we did the washing. As a matter of interest we have a standard domestic washing machine which is powered by our built-in, diesel generator. The only problem is that, because of our very limited water tankage we have to be sure that there is a water point handy somewhere along our route. Nevertheless, it sure as Hell beats having to look for a launderette!
Karen and Indy leave us this evening and we shall spend the weekend here.
Day’s run: 11.2 miles and 0 locks in 4.3 hours

2004-06-24T21:27:00.000+02:00

Nether Heyford to Cosgrove
I am told that the wind today was only “moderate to fresh” but, as far as we were concerned it was a howling gale! No rain however.
We made our way to Gayton Junction, where the water point is round the corner on the Northampton Arm. Despite the wind Mary did a brilliant turn and reversed neatly onto it. Having done the business we motored on to the Blisworth Tunnel where, I am pleased to say, our headlamp behaved faultlessly. Met only one boat coming the other way.
At Stoke Bruerne Mary and Karen insisted on operating the locks as I have slightly dished my back so I was again able to enjoy the luxury of taking the boat down this popular flight.
After that we enjoyed uneventful travel – apart from a few problems with the wind – and light traffic to Cosgrove where we moored on the extensive and pleasant visitor moorings below the lock.
Day’s run: 15.9 miles and 8 locks in 6.7 hours

(note: our timings are taken from my engine hours meter so represent the actual time the engine was running – this includes periods when we are stationary with the engine running, as when filling with water).

2004-06-23T20:42:00.000+02:00

Talk about fair-weather sailors! We had intended reaching Cosgrove today but, faced with the prospect of seven hours in a howling gale and siling rain we quickly made the decision to stay put for the day.
Our friends Tony and Susie popped round for coffee this morning. Otherwise, apart from visiting the local shops, we did very little.
Yesterday afternoon I got my meter out and did a thorough check on the wiring of our tunnel light. The problem turned out to be caused not, as I had suspected, by the switch, but by the fitting of an incorrectly rated fuse which had become degraded.
We shall *have* to move tomorrow because we urgently need both water and sewage disposal.

2004-06-22T22:40:00.000+02:00

Welton to Nether Heyford
Perfect boating weather this morning: sunny, not too hot with no wind.
Uneventful travel to Norton Junction where, with no other boat in sight, we set off alone down the 7 Buckby locks. Because Karen is with us she and Mary were able to operate the locks thus giving me a chance to steer, a rare treat.
At the Wolverhampton 21 we were treated to a display of very good canal manners; here we met an example of the opposite. Near the bottom we saw a boat ahead of us but, despite notices at the top lock entreating all boaters to share where possible for water-conservation reasons, he did not wait. When Mary and Karen walked down to the final lock he was fuming because, as often happens first thing in the morning at Buckby, water was streaming over the top of the gates and he was having trouble opening them. For some reason he seemed to hold us responsible for this situation. Because of his abusive attitude Mary and Karen did not feel disposed to help but left him and his wife to their own devices.
When we ourselves came down we passed said gentleman angrily mooring his narrow-beam Dutch barge (an oxymoron I fancy – the term that is, not the bloke!) but later, when he caught us up and we let him through he waved cheerfully and gave us a beatific smile so obviously he had recovered his composure.
We made our way at an easy pace to Nether Heyford where we moored on our favourite spot. Our friends Susie and her partner Tony – who owns a gorgeous, Bolinder-engined Josher – are moored around the corner and have promised us sausage and mash for supper.
Day’s run: 8.6 miles and 7 locks in 4.0 hours.

2004-06-21T20:50:00.000+02:00

Willoughby - Welton
Yesterday (Sunday) we moved the half mile or so from our Barby mooring to Willoughby Bridge which is a convenient spot to meet visitors. Our friend Karen and her miniature Schnauzer, Indy, are spending a few days with us. Karen lives on a boat but seldom gets the opportunity to cruise so we always welcome her as crew.
Because of the very heavy passing traffic over the weekend we decided to start early in order to take on water in busy Braunston – a centre of canal activity – and get up the locks before the rush. As it turned out traffic was quite light all day.
Just below the top lock at Braunston we found a 65-foot Wyvern hire boat firmly jammed across the canal. Apparently they had been told that they could turn in the pound (something, I have to say, that we would not have attempted) but it had clearly all gone wrong. As a good deal pf heaving and poling failed to shift the boat we eventually hitched a line to our T-stud and, by reversing hard, were able to pull them off.
No sooner had this problem been solved than another arose in the Braunston Tunnel. Regular readers of my blog will remember that our tunnel light failed in the Blisworth earlier in our cruise; this now happened again only this time frantically cycling of the rotary switch did not work. As another boat was approaching we did not have a lot of time; Mary and Karen leapt out with torches but fortunately I was able to get the lamp working again by fiddling with the socket. I shall perform a thorough check of the wiring before we reach Blisworth!
Indy, who has not been on a moving boat before, has behaved very well and shows every sign of being a natural boating dog. He is quite happy to sit or lie on the roof and particular likes perching himself on the end of a lock beam to watch us all working.
As we plan to meet friends at Nether Heyford tomorrow we moored beyond the tunnel and relaxed for the rest of the day.
Not exactly a testing session but not without incident either.
Day’s run: 4.9 miles and 6 locks in 3.2 hours.

2004-06-18T21:44:00.000+02:00

Hillmorton to Barby
Just a short hop today to take us to one of our favourite moorings: hard by what we call “The Naughty Boys Club” (Onley Young Offenders Institution).
It’s a stiff walk up to Barby village but I always like to do it so as to have a look at the (obviously home-made) bench, decorated in New Age/Celtic style, which commemorates “Nightmare” (Simon Thompson) who: “ended his travelling here with his much loved dog Smirnoff”.
I once asked a local resident about this and he told me that back in 1997 a group of New Agers had taken up residence along the bridle path. They seem actually to have been quite popular in the village (although not with the local farmer) as they spent money in both shop and pub. It was this latter that led to Thompson and Smirnoff’s demise as, after returning from that establishment he apparently knocked over the oil lamp in his van and incinerated himself.
I always find this wayside memorial to a young life strangely moving.

Many boats have been displaying the Cross of St George this week – I suspect that there must be some sort of international sporting event in progress!
Day’s run: 3.7 miles and no locks in 1.3 hours

2004-06-17T21:28:00.000+02:00

I hope that my comments in these reports will not be seen as an attempt to disparage hirers and hire boats. Like most boat owners, we ourselves spent several very happy holidays on hire boats and we are aware that their crews are often more experienced than a lot of private boat owners. In our experience the crews of hire boats are usually courteous, polite and anxious to conform to canal conventions whereas private owners sometimes appear to consider themselves a cut above everyone else. In the matter of going too fast past moored boats we certainly think that private boats are the worst culprits (although hire boats from Kate Boats of Warwick seem to be mounting a challenge).
This matter of going by too fast can certainly be a great annoyance, especially when one is cooking, but there is also an obligation on the moorer to tie up properly. We have sometimes seen people gesticulating angrily at passing boats when there own craft are secured with no more than bits of string and old knicker elastic!

Hawkesbury Junction to Hillmorton Top Lock
For many years the Coventry and North Oxford canals were not physically connected. This was because they were run by separate companies who each jealously guarded their own water. The two canals used to run side-by-side, parallel to each other and goods had to be trans-shipped from one canal to the other. When this ridiculous situation was eventually resolved by constructing a stop lock it was found that the Oxford was six inches higher than the Coventry, thus the Oxford Canal Company had to endure the galling sight of its water flowing into the Coventry.
The 180° turn at Hawkesbury which resulted from the connection of the two canals has always presented a problem and continues to do so today, especially when there is a high wind. We certainly used to find it quite difficult in our early days but now hardly think about it and today Mary did one of her usual immaculate turns.
The journey from Hawkesbury to Rugby is lock-free and not particularly interesting so she retired below to do the ironing while I steered.
At Rugby we made a necessary but tedious visit to Tesco and had lunch on board before starting off again towards Hillmorton where we shot up the paired locks (that is to say two separate locks in tandem rather than a double lock as on the Grand Union).
From now on it is double locks all the way home. Can this really be the very last time I shall ever operate a single lock?
Day’s run: 15.6 miles and 4 locks in 5.9 hours

2004-06-16T21:06:00.000+02:00

Atherstone to Hawkesbury Junction
Talking of getting our locking technique down to a fine art, we had an excellent run up the Atherstone locks this morning. This is a pleasant, although rather slow-filling, set of locks which takes the Coventry Canal from rural, and rather up-market Grendon to urban and distinctly down-market Atherstone.
Because there were more boats than we have ever seen moored at the bottom we set off at 0705 and, for a wonder, did not meet another boat until very near the top and had the majority of locks in our favour. With the aid of the bike we raced up the locks and I often had time to take a breather. As Mary remarked: “Confucius he say, ‘man on bike can go faster than woman on boat!’”
The only delay was when I heard a voice shouting, “’elp! ‘elp!” beside Lock 5. I leapt onto a convenient tree stump and peered over the wall to see an old lady who yelled, “I need ‘elp. I want to go ‘ome!” I noticed a small group of old dears watching with interest (possibly in the hope of seeing their colleague make her escape) but Matron (if that’s what they are called these days) soon appeared and shepherded the old darling back to her chair. I was reminded of the notice seen on a boat last year: “Be nice to your children – they’ll choose the nursing home!”
We reached the top of the locks to find a queue already developing. Incidentally Lady Elgar has now done more than 4000 locks whilst in our ownership.
A very pleasant run in warm sunshine took us past the famous Gilbert Brothers “Charity Dock” at Bedworth – still, I am delighted to see, a complete shambles. Obviously it has resisted all attempts to “rationalise” it.
Finally arrived at Hawkesbury Junction where we were lucky to be able to snick into a space.
Hawkesbury was apparently known to the old boatmen as “Sutton Stop” and those boaters, of whom there are many, who wish to affect a deep knowledge of canal lore often call it this. I was interested to hear the late Doris Collins, one of the last surviving boatwomen from the working days, refer to it as “’awkesbury”. She should know – her son was born on a boat there!
Day’s run: 12.8 miles and 11 locks in 6.2 hours.

2004-06-15T20:42:00.000+02:00

Fradley to Grendon (Bottom of Atherstone Locks)
At first sight, travelling in a straight line would seem to be the easiest part of canal boating; it is going up and down locks that worries most novices. In our early days of boating it was not until long after we had got our locking technique down to a fine art that we realized the importance of being able to steer a good course, and that the best course is not necessarily in the middle of the canal.
To move efficiently in a straight line a boat needs the water to be able to move down each side of the boat equally freely. As the bottom of most canals is saucer-shaped it is quite easy to get too far to one side and thus cause unequal pressure (or counter-flow) on the sides of the boat which will then cause it to slew to one side. Thus a good steerer will always stay “in the channel” where he or she has fingertip control of the tiller, no forward momentum is lost by unnecessary use of the rudder and the engine is at its most efficient. Generally speaking, if you have to fight the tiller you are doing something wrong!
Because there were only four locks in the twenty or so miles we covered today we had ample opportunity to demonstrate to ourselves the efficacy of this technique and we made effortless progress. Our only major hold-up occurred at the Glascote Locks where a couple of crews were demonstrating a degree of good-natured ineptitude, however all was eventually sorted out and we were on our way again to the bottom of the Atherstone flight of locks – one of our favourite moorings.
The best thing about yesterday was the glorious weather; today was cloudy and much colder, but the boating was a lot better!
Day’s run: 20.4 miles and 4 locks in 7.8 hours

2004-06-14T21:21:00.000+02:00

Tixall to Fradley
Spent a pleasant weekend at Tixall although we were somewhat annoyed when a hire boat scraped along the entire length of our boat before discovering that he could not get in. He then asked us to move back, which we would have done in the first place had he asked beforte attempting it. Did it with a rather bad grace I’m afraid, particularly as we were in the middle of supper.. On both Saturday and Sunday nights there were over 30 boats moored button to button, at Tixall, a far cry from the way it used to be like.
Today we started at 0715 and had a good run into Rugeley where we took on provisions at Safeway and I got a much needed haircut.
The run between Rugeley and Handsacre is twisty and often shallow with many bridgeholes. It also includes the Armitage Tunnel – actually no longer a tunnel but too narrow to pass so a natural bottleneck. The traffic on this section was heavier than anything we have ever known on the canals – even the Llangollen – and the school holidays have not even started yet! The new marina at King’s Bromley already houses 100 boats and is, I understand, being enlarged to take another 100. What with this and the huge number of timeshare boats out of nearby Alvecote the whole area around Fradley Junction is becoming grossly congested.
With one boat builder reputedly flooding the market with 600 new boats a year and very few old ones being scrapped or removed from the system we do wonder when saturation point will be reached; there is certainly little pleasure to be had from cruising in these conditions.
Having said that, we are comfortably moored above Shade House Lock in the company of friends who we met a couple of years ago on the Grand Union.
Day’s run: 12.7 miles and 3 locks in 6.2 hours

2004-06-11T20:53:00.000+02:00

Gailey to Tixall Wide
There is a lady on the South Grand Union (I will be no more specific than that) who clearly regards herself as the fount of all knowledge on canal matters, despite the fact that her boat apparently never moves. This lady is not averse to passing on little gems of wisdom to passing boaters and I remember that on one occasion when we complained to her of the adverse affects of the wind she advised us that we should “use the wind.” Ever since then, when faced with a howling gale which is blowing us halfway across the Cut Mary and I remind each other to, “use the wind!”
In point of fact the high sides and low speed of narrow boats makes them extremely difficult to handle in even a moderate wind and I have never found a canal boater, however experienced, who has any real answer to the problem apart from improvisation. When faced with these conditions, as we were today, we abandon our normal policy of letting the boat ride gently as we wait for the lock to fill and use a line to hold it to the bollards. This takes a bit longer which, combined with the fact that every lock was against and, unlike yesterday, there was a lot of boat traffic, accounts for the slowness of our days run.
At Filance Lock, Penkridge we came across a minor altercation between a lady single-hander who flatly refused to accept any assistance and the skipper of a hotel boat who, after fifteen minutes of waiting was getting somewhat impatient. Eventually all was sorted out and we were on our way again.
A large sheet of polythene on our propeller delayed us at Stafford but we eventually reached our destination: Tixall Wide.
This stretch is unique on the canal system and is more akin to the Norfolk Broads than a narrow canal. Apparently it exists because Thomas Clifford of Tixall Hall would only tolerate the canal passing through his land provided it did not impinge upon his view from the hall. Thus the canal company was forced to “landscape” almost a mile of canal. The resulting stretch is most attractive and has become an extremely popular mooring spot with modern leisure boaters. Fortunately we were able to find a space there and are comfortably settled opposite the stately ruins of a Tudor gatehouse which lies amongst the trees opposite.
Day’s run: 12.4 miles and 12 locks in 7.4 hours

2004-06-10T21:23:00.000+02:00

Compton to Gailey
“Bridge 59” turned out to be excellent, if a little pricey.
This morning we slept-in after our exertions yesterday. We then walked up to the local Spa supermarket to do some re-provisioning.
Upon our return Dave Bradley, another old friend from Compton days, came strolling along the towpath with his dog so we stopped for a chat with him. Eventually got away about 1030 and ascended Compton Lock. This is said to have been the first lock constructed by James Brindley – in the 1760s – and thus the model for all other narrow locks on the canal system. Lady Elgar first ascended it on 17th July 1993 and, as we gently chugged along in the sunshine this morning I recalled that exciting day when, after many months of waiting, the boat was at last on its way and heading south.
On that trip Lady Elgar was in a very basic state. My brother-in-law, Paul, had gallantly volunteered to act as steerer and together we took the boat down to Iver on the Slough Arm of the Grand Union. On that occasion we moored for the night at Boggs Lock; we contemplated doing the same today but we are now rather wary of mooring in short pounds (if a lock drains you can be left high and dry, often at a very odd angle!) so we stopped at a spot where we have moored previously, just before Gailey. Excellent TV picture including digital – pity there’s nothing on worth watching!
A most pleasant and relaxed day – canal travel at its best.
Day’s run: 9.7 mile and 1 lock in 3.5 hours

2004-06-09T21:41:00.000+02:00

It’s a strange fact that, although Lady Elgar was built at Compton which is on the Staffs & Worcs Canal and within a couple of miles of Aldersley Junction at the bottom of the “Wolverhampton Twenty-one” we have never worked this flight of locks. It is, indeed, probably the only one of the famous flights that we have never done. Today we corrected that omission.
We started out at 0715 from the Black Country Museum in order to get down the “21” in good time. As we made the journey via Tipton and Coseley we were aware of a boat behind us; this turned out to be Nb “Copperkins II” an old friend but with a different crew from the one we normally meet (it’s a shared ownership boat). Elaine and Peter turned out to be amiable and highly efficient and followed us down most of the flight.
Many of the locks on the BCN are protected by special locks which prevent vandals from drawing the paddles and draining the pounds. To release these locks it is necessary to use a barrel key which all boaters know as a “handcuff key” but which British Waterways prefer, rather pedantically, to call a “water conservation key”. All the locks of the “21” are fitted with these mechanism but, unlike those at Wigan, these are extremely easy to release and re-set.
Generally speaking we enjoyed the “21” and got down in about 3 hours but I cannot deny being rather knackered but the time we reached the bottom.
The whole area we were now in is full of memories for me: Lock 19 of the “21” where our beloved dog Elgar once fell in; Aldersley Junction which we have passed through many times; the yard at Compton where I spent so many happy hours yarning with Dave Elwell or working on the boat back in the early 1990s and Wightwick Mill Lock the first Lady Elgar ever negotiated and which we now went through on our way to wind (turn round).
Having been welcomed back to her birthplace by Dave, Carol and the Old Man we now moored Lady Elgar opposite the dock which used to be the berth of the lovely Staffs & Worcs inspection launch, Lady Hatherton.
Relaxing from our labours we are enjoying a small alcoholic libation and think that we may eschew the chip shop in favour of the rather posh-looking “Bridge 59” restaurant.
Day’s run: 12.1 miles and 24 locks in 7.3 hours

2004-06-08T20:30:00.000+02:00

Oozells Street Loop to The Black Country Museum, Tipton.

Ah, the BCN! Loved by many; hated by as many more. Personally I have always liked it, being attracted by its dilapidated buildings and decaying factories. At one time there was a mass of small arms and basins but many of these have now been filled-in with only an arch of brickwork to indicate where they once were.
The BCN is disliked mainly because of its lack of pretty scenery (although there is a surprising amount of this even in the very industrial parts), the high incidence of fouled propellers due to the use of the canal as a rubbish tip by local residents, and for what is perceived as the ever-present threat of vandalism and violence. It is true that, on some parts of the BCN, regular visits to the weed hatch are required and we have variously pulled out a ten-foot length of carpet, yards of electric cable and a complete rubber dinghy as well as the ubiquitous rope and polythene. On one occasion we even managed to get a car tyre neatly encircling the propeller and almost impossible to remove. Personally I think that these difficulties merely add to the challenge of canal boating.
The threat of violence from the local youth undoubtedly exists but can be minimised by setting off – and mooring – early, preferably at recommended mooring sites.
After a reasonably quiet night in Birmingham we set off down the Main Line towards Wolverhampton. Instead of following the straighter and more direct New Main Line we ascended the Smethwick locks and then turned down Brindley’s original canal – the Old Main Line. At Spon Lane we saw an extraordinary building: a factory, but more like a red brick church with its high-pointed gothic arches and spire. The tell-tale chimney was discreetly positioned at the rear, the whole structure clearly dedicated to that great Victorian God: Industry. Now crumbling it will no doubt soon be demolished.
A landmark of more recent origin which catches the eye is the rather splendid Smethwick Mosque whose white cupola and abundant glittering gold enrichments can be seen for miles around
For some distance the path of the OML intertwines with that of the M5 Motorway. There is some sense of grandeur as one weaves between the vast concrete pillars which convey the motorway high above but also, in the dusty, grassless wilderness, a sense of Orwellian desolation.
Eventually able to break clear of the motorway into a more rural landscape we made our way to the Black Country Museum. The exhibition here occupies a large tract of land. Its stated aim is: “to preserve and portray the rich history of the area for today’s and future generations”. This it certainly succeeds in doing and we spent a fascinating couple of hours exploring the accoutrements of everyday life in the period from 1850 to 1950. Eventually tiring we repaired to the public bar of the “Bottle and Glass” (complete with sawdust) for a pint of local bitter. The landlady advised us that our boat was moored within range of a bridge which is frequently used by local youngsters to amuse themselves by hurling bricks and bottles at the moored boats! Fortunately we were able to reverse back to a safer spot.
Day’s run: 8.3 miles and 3 locks in 4.0 hours.

2004-06-07T20:29:00.000+02:00

Earlswood to Oozells Street Loop, Birmingham
We travelled from Earlswood to King’s Norton, the junction with the Worcester and Birmingham Canal, without meeting a single boat. This section of the North Stratford is now surrounded by heavy vegetation but, at the King’s Norton end there are still signs of the industry that once flourished here. At Lifford the swing bridge lies decaying at the side of the canal and the old chemical works now has grass and foliage sprouting up through its crumbling brickwork. No doubt the old buildings and the iron-banded chimney will soon be demolished, to be replaced by anonymous modern housing but at the moment the spot still has its ghosts and it is possible to imagine the hubbub and activity as hoards of workers, either on foot or on bicycles, streamed across the bridge whilst the factory hooter sounded and boats waited impatiently to pass.
When approaching Birmingham by way of the Grand Union one is alerted to the proximity of a large metropolis by the increasing amounts of graffiti and an accumulated layer of plastic bottles, bags, beer cans and other rubbish on the surface of the canal; all the detritus of the consumer society in fact. The approach from Worcester, past Bourneville, Birmingham University and Edgbaston, is more pleasant and one is almost surprised to reach, quite suddenly, Worcester Bar and Broad Street Bridge at the very centre of the city.
Worcester Bar, which is a narrow stop-lock alongside Gas Street (so called because it was the first street to have full gas lighting) marks the beginning of the BCN (Birmingham Canal Navigations), a network of small canals which used to supply the very many factories and manufacturing businesses which made this great city so famous throughout the world.
The contrast between the quietness of our isolated mooring at Earlswood and the bustle and noise of Central Birmingham could not be greater and is yet another demonstration of the great diversity to be found on the canals of England.
We normally moor at Gas Street but the advent of a huge block of nightclubs has made this spot even noisier than before and this time we have been able to find a more secluded mooring around the corner in the Oozells Street Loop, a section of the Birmingham Old Main Line which was made redundant when Telford created his “New Main Line”.
Day’s run: 12.9 miles with no locks in 5.3 hours

2004-06-06T12:50:00.000+02:00

A pleasant day yesterday with a visit from the family and a brief cruise down to the winding-hole (turning point) at Hockley Heath.
Today we are sitting around in lovely sunshine at this very quiet and leafy spot reading the Sunday papers.
It’s a hard life but someone has to do it I suppose!

2004-06-03T20:45:00.000+02:00

Hopwood to Earlswood
Just a short run today to get us to a spot where it is convenient for the family to visit.
Having started at 0730 we got through the Wast Hill Tunnel and past King’s Norton Junction without problems and then found ourselves back on the Stratford Canal again, but this time at the top end where the surroundings are much less rural.
As we chugged southwards we met the first scouts of what soon became a swarm of northbound hire boats all making their way back to base at the end of the school half-term holiday. At Earlswood Bridge, a very awkward one, we had to hold in the shallows whilst no less than five boats came through nose to tail. Released at last we threaded our way down a narrow channel between the moored boats at Earlswood Motor Yacht Club and finally moored at a spot which we have used before and which is handy for the road.
I set off on a foraging expedition by bike and was delighted to find that Wedge’s, the excellent little home bakery and produce shop is not only still in existence but apparently flourishing.
Our grand-daughter leaves us tomorrow and we shall probably make a short excursion to turn round before mooring again for the weekend. Next week we head for central Birmingham, the Black Country Museum and the flight of locks known as the “Wolverhampton Twenty-One”.
Day’s run: 10.4 miles with no locks in 3.9 hours

2004-06-02T20:47:00.000+02:00

The weather today was perfect for serious locking: bright and sunny but not too hot. The Tardebigge flight climbs up through the beautiful, rolling Worcestershire landscape and the garish yellow of the rape flower in the surrounding fields has now given way to a verdant green.
We set off at 0730 but still found every lock against us. The reason for this became clear when, about halfway up, we caught up with a single-hander. Although not highly experienced he was making good progress and did not really delay us, especially when I persuaded him to let me close his top gates for him.
Our grand-daughter, Millie, was a great help. At age 10 the paddles on the Worcs & Birmingham are too stiff for her to wind up but she can let them down and also swing the gates so we got an excellent system worked out. We got up the whole flight of 30 locks in about three and a half hours so I should think the bogie time for a good young crew with reasonable luck would be about three hours. Although quite tiring, the whole experience was highly enjoyable and very different from the last time we did it in 1997, when the rain was siling down and, for some now inexplicable reason, it took us five hours.
There is an historic spot at the top of the Tardebigge locks. It was here, during World War II that Tom Rolt – author of the seminal book “Narrow Boat” – lay for several years moored in his narrow boat “Cressy” and it was here that Robert Aickman visited him and they agreed to form the Inland Waterways Association. A historic spot indeed and there is a small pillar with a plaque to commemorate the event.
At Tardebigge Top Lock we met a highly experienced and affable crew who had had the misfortune to be stoned (in the sense of having stones hurled at them!) when entering the Wast Hill Tunnel last night. This, unfortunately, is an increasingly common problem and the area between Wast Hill and King’s Norton Junction has long been known as “Bandit Country” (the “bandits” usually being aged between 8 and 14). We shall start early in the morning in the hope of clearing the area before the little b****s get up! Incidentally, having moored in the middle of London, Birmingham, Manchester and Leeds the only place we have had trouble is at that centre of Culture and the Arts: BATH. There we both had stones dropped on us and the boat noisily rocked in the middle of the night.
We are moored at Hopwood where there are good moorings although with much vehicular noise – only to be expected as we enter a busy commercial and industrial area.
Day’s run: 7.5 miles and 30 locks in 6.5 hours

2004-06-01T20:41:00.000+02:00

Tibberton Wharf to Stoke Pound
We stayed at Tibberton for the Bank Holiday weekend. Our son Dan and his girlfriend Jenny came on Monday bringing our grand-daughter, Millie, who is to stay with us for a few days. Our meal at “The Bridge” was acceptable, although not outstanding. As always we were able to indulge in much gossip with other boaters.
As we had an important letter to send by special delivery I had to visit the Post Office in Tibberton this morning and we did not get going until about 0915.
Travel to the Astwood Locks was largely uneventful although we found much congestion at Hanbury Wharf where the old Droitwich Canal (now being restored) joins the Worcester and Birmingham.
The locks which carry the W&B up to the Birmingham level used to be known to the working boatmen as the “thirty and twelve” that is to say the two flights of six – Astwood and Stoke – followed by the great Tardegigge flight of 30 locks. We have elected to do this section in two stages and, having completed “the twelve”, are moored opposite the “Queen’s Head” at Stoke Pound ready for an assault on “the thirty” tomorrow.
Day’s run: 8.0 miles and 12 locks in 4.8 hours

2004-05-28T21:44:00.000+02:00

Upton-on-Severn to Tibberton Wharf
The old working boatmen used to call it a “good road”. What they meant was one of those days when every lock is in your favour. We certainly had a “good road” today!
Having left Upton at 0730 we chugged up the River Severn to Worcester. This took about three hours and, as it is not a particularly interesting stretch Mary went below and did the ironing.
Having passed through the Diglis river lock – huge and mechanically operated – we turned off the river and went through the middle of Worcester. Passers-by find it rather surprising when, having just crossed a busy road in the city centre, they come across a canal boat!
We were now on the Birmingham and Worcester Canal. The locks are narrow (i.e. 7 feet) but, unlike those on the Stratford Canal they do not have little bridges to enable you to pass from side to side so, having opened one gate you have to step across a 3’ 6” gap to open the other one (or go round of course). I used to perform this operation confidently. I still do it but age has brought with it a certain circumspection and the thought of falling ten feet into a muddy canal means that I now have to brace myself a bit before stepping over.
All canals have their own, idiosyncratic lock gear; the Birmingham and Worcester has a rather neat pawl mechanism which enables you to release it with a backward flip of the windlass handle before lowering the paddle.
We were fortunate to meet a British Waterways lengthsman making his monthly inspection of the stretch and he very kindly opened each lock for us as we went up. We parted from him at the top of the 16-lock flight out of Worcester with profuse thanks for his help.
We are now moored on the pleasant visitor moorings at Tibberton Wharf. Because of a very poor signal on my cellphone I thought that I would be unable to send this report, or clear my email, but, by dint of fixing an antenna onto our rear chimney I have managed to connect.
We shall stay here for tomorrow at least.
Day’s run: 15.7 miles and 17 locks in 6.9 hours

2004-05-27T22:26:00.000+02:00

Wyre Piddle to Upton-on-Severn
Lady Elgar may not be very nimble in tight situations but she just *loves* the deep water of rivers! This morning she ran like a bird down to Tewkesbury. We passed under the multi-arched bridge at Eckington which was built in the 16th century and is still in good condition today, over four hundred years later: a great credit to its Elizabethan builders.
I contacted British Waterways and it seems that Wolverley Lock will not be passable until Friday 4th June. I have also spoken to a boater who has actually seen the collapsed wall and he thinks that this forecast is *highly* optimistic so we have decided to take a different route: we shall now only go as far as Worcester on the River Severn and then turn up the Worcester and Birmingham Canal.
We arrived at Avon Lock, Tewkesbury, during the lunch hour and had to wait for the lock-keeper to arrive (only the Evesham and Tewkesbury locks are manned on ther Avon) but were soon on our way up the Severn. Our three-cylinder Perkins engine struggled gallantly but it was still fairly slow going against the stream. We eventually arrived at Upton-on-Severn where by dint of a rather inelegant piece of reversing, we were just able to occupy the last mooring on the pontoon.
We walked into the pretty little town and later ‘phoned for a takeaway from ‘Pundits’, the local Bangladeshi restaurant. We felt rather like members of the old British Raj as this splendid meal was delivered to our boat.
Days run: 21.8 miles and 5 locks in 7.3 hours

2004-05-26T21:52:00.000+02:00

Stratford Basin to Wyre Piddle
Yes, Wyre Piddle, and we have just passed Tiddle Widdle Island – my grand daughter will think we are taking the piss!
Anyone who knows the geography of the Inland Waterways and has been following my blog will realise that we have changed our plans. Our original intention was to go up the River Nene to Peterborough and thence, possibly, through the Middle Levels to Bedford or Cambridge. For a variety of reasons which I will not bother to enumerate we decided against this plan and opted instead to do the southern section of the Stratford and the River Avon to Tewkesbury, a run which has been highly recommended to us.
Rivers are quite different from canals; not only because they have a (sometimes strong) flow But also because the levels can change quite dramatically as a result of rainfall.
Mooring, too, is not always easy. Whilst on the canal system the ever-present towpath is owned by British Waterways and it is possible to moor almost anywhere, but on the rivers most of the bank is owned by private individuals, the riparian owners, whom it is important not to upset. On the River Avon most of the main towns have areas where one can moor but there is not a great deal of mooring in between. We have found, however, that the Trusts which administer the Upper and Lower Avon have been careful to provide areas at most of the locks where it is permitted to moor overnight.
On the Upper Avon all the locks are named after benefactors whose donations helped to restore the waterway but we were particularly pleased to note that there is an ‘Anonymous Lock’, dedicated to all those who contributed but did not wish to be named.
After a superb day’s cruising we moored on one of the above-mentioned lock approaches. We have now heard by ‘towpath telegraph’ (the amazing word-of-mouth network by which boaters learn, within hours, all the latest gossip) that Wolverley Lock on the Staffs and Worcester Canal has been closed. This could seriously affect us as we had planned to go that way.
More anon.
Day’s run: 26.4 miles and 13 locks in 9.3 hours.

2004-05-25T20:22:00.000+02:00

Wilmcote to Stratford Basin
Once again we started in perfect conditions and soon reached Wilmcote Top Lock, the first of eleven.
Crew relations were much better this morning although I did get a slight wigging for allowing a lock gate to swing fractionally whilst talking to the owner of two magnificent Bearnese Mountain Dogs. It was, of course, the dogs rather than the glamorous appearance of the lady owner that attracted my interest!
All the locks on this section are rather battered, often with creaky mechanisms and wobbly gates. Also, there is often very little overhead clearance and we had to take down our chimneys and high exhaust stack. We do have a short stack (know as a ‘titch’ pipe) but dislike using it because it tends to gas us.
Having heard many contradictory opinions as to the merits of mooring in Stratford Basin as against going down on to the river and mooring alongside the recreation ground opposite the Shakespeare Memorial Theatre we eventually settled for the basin and moored on the pontoons there.
Having become seriously short of supplies (especially grog) we set off into the town on a provisioning expedition. My own feeling is that I would rather do 20 locks than make one visit to Somerfields (or any other supermarket) but we were able to replenish our supplies as well as topping up on literature and obtaining a relevant Ordnance Survey map from one of several excellent bookshops. Needless to say the town’s connections with the Bard are widely promulgated.
Tomorrow we hit the Upper Avon.
Days run: 3.7 miles and 16 locks in 3.7 hours.

2004-05-24T21:08:00.000+02:00

We spent a very pleasant weekend moored on the Rowington Embankment which, unusually on the canals, has gorgeous views in both directions. The only event to mar our pleasure was when, on Saturday night, a boat loaded with about ten young guys moored on the offside quite close to us. Clearly already in a cheerful frame of mind they now made their way to a pub which lies some quarter of a mile from the canal. Their return at 2 am was accompanied by tremendous whoops and howls which were enough to wake the entire neighbourhood. As we struggled to get back to sleep our only consolation was that they would all have thick heads in the morning but, of course, they were up bright and early and on their riotous way. Oh to be young again!
Despite our elevated position at Rowington the TV signal was not good, a vital matter as the Monaco Grand Prix was on, however by dint of much fiddling with the aerial we were able to get a reasonable picture.

Rowington to Wilmcote
This morning we set off early in perfect conditions. To pass through a deeply wooded cutting with the sun reflecting off a mantle of trees, the slightest touch of mist still clinging to the surface of the canal and a heron, flying in slow-motion ahead of the boat, on a May morning in England is for me a supreme pleasure.
All too soon we arrived at Kingswood Junction where, for the first time since leaving our mooring, we parted company with the Grand Union Canal. We passed through the short section which connects the Grand Union to the Stratford-on-Avon Canal and came out in the middle of the famous Lapworth Locks. In the past we have always been heading for King’s Norton and Birmingham and so have turned to the right but this time we turned left towards Stratford. It is strange that, in nearly ten years of full-time boating we have never come this way and so we felt again the excitement of new water, of not knowing what might be around the next bend.
The Stratford, with its barrel-vaulted cottages and split bridges, is a delightful canal and, as we enjoyed the woodland and meadows through which it passes – almost unchanged for two hundred years – we remembered with gratitude the efforts of Tom Rolt and Robert Aickman, founders of the Inland Waterways Association, whose efforts (assisted, of course, by many others) were largely responsible for the restoration of this lovely waterway. Neither was an easy man but I suspect that it was their particular brand of awkwardness that enabled them to overcome so many bureaucratic obstacles in those pioneering days.
The Stratford has narrow (7 foot) locks rather than the 14 foot ones on the Grand Union and, in the course of adjusting to these and accustoming herself to the drag of the side weirs Mary did not enter the first few locks with her customary precision. This always irritates her and there was also a certain amount of crew dissent occasioned by my habit of engaging approaching crews in conversation (when she thinks I should be concentrating on the boat). I, of course, believe that I am conducting essential intelligence-gathering operations about the route ahead!
Having taken on fuel from the ex-working boat ‘Bletchley” ( a Town Class, Large Woolwich for the cognoscenti) we headed for the Edstone Aqueduct. Just before we reached it we heard a loud bleating and found a lamb in the water, unable to get out. By ramming our bow into the dense undergrowth I was able to get ashore and rescue the creature but, in the course of doing so, ripped my forearms to shreds. This, added to our resuscitation of the “dead” sheep at Marsworth earlier on this trip, makes me feel that I have now done more than enough to justify that next, delicious shoulder of lamb.
Unable to find a decent remote mooring we pressed on to Wilmcote where we moored on the excellent visitor moorings. One of the great advantages of a longish day is that our engine-heated calorifier produces a huge amount of piping hot water so I have been able to indulge myself with an extended shower. This together with a medicinal quantity of Stella Artois has made all seem right with the world but I still reckon that having taken on both water and diesel, ditched sewage and rubbish and rescued a sheep as well as doing eleven miles and eighteen locks is not a bad effort for two sixty-five-year-olds.
Day’s run: 11.1 miles and 18 locks in 7.5 hours.

2004-05-20T23:19:00.000+02:00

I have always believed that the old time boatmen referred to the Hatton locks as ‘Heartbreak Hill’ although many of the cognoscenti now consider this to be a modern fiction. Certainly it is one of the five or six *great* flights of locks on the canal system.
We set off early from the Saltisford Arm and arrived at the first Hatton Lock at about 0800. The discouraging thing about Hatton is that, when you have done the first eleven locks and are just beginning to feel knackered you are faced with the awesome main flight of locks at 100 yard intervals. Fortunately the weather was cooler than yesterday and rather overcast so our labours were made easier and we got up the entire flight in about three hours.
Having taken on water at the top of the Hatton locks we cruised on to Rowington where we are moored at a favourite spot on the embankment and have just been joined by boating friends who had heard that we were in the area. We shall stay here until Monday, when we set off down the Stratford-on-Avon canal.

2004-05-19T22:37:00.000+02:00

Calcutt to Saltisford
The term ‘lockwheeling’ refers to the practice of sending a crew member ahead to set the next lock whilst the boat is still passing through the previous one. We find this technique very useful when faced with a series of locks and thus it was that we brought out our faithful Brompton folding bike as we approached the Stockton locks. This is a beautiful flight of ten locks and our passage down them was poetry in motion, despite every lock being against us. Having got the boat into the lock (with Mary steering) I closed the gates and drew one paddle (effectively a sluice valve) before cycling down to the next lock where I also raised one paddle. By the time I got back to the first lock it was almost empty and ready for the gate to be opened to release the boat. When I had closed the gate, dropped the paddle and cycled down to the lock below this was ready to be opened. And so it went on; I was almost sorry when we reached the bottom!
We spent the rest of the morning cruising through the lovely English countryside – incomparable at this time of year – in perfect weather. Out idyll was somewhat spoiled when we reached the urban areas of Leamington Spa and Warwick but we were at least able to take on supplies at Tesco.
We moored for the night in the pretty little Saltisford Arm, although we had a long wait to get in as the hotel pair ‘Duke’ and Duchess were busy carrying various vital servicing procedures (narrow-boaters will know about these) and were blocking the arm.
Day’s run: 13.7 miles and 22 locks in 8.1 hours

2004-05-18T20:42:00.000+02:00

Started early (0715) to get an easy passage through the Braunston Tunnel. This one is somewhat shorter than the Blisworth but has a pronounced ‘kink’ in the middle.
Braunston is regarded as the capital of the canal system. Although only a modest size village it marks the hub of James Brindley’s great ‘Grand Cross” scheme to link the rivers Thames, Mersey, Trent and Severn. It has always been a busy centre of canal activity, today more so than ever with the increasing number of pleasure boats that moor there. We find there are rather too many ‘poseurs’ for our taste and are always pleased to get through the place.
Having worked down the six Braunston locks we made our way through a gaggle of boats to Braunston Turn, where we chugged off down the South Oxford Canal and tranquillity was restored. The atmosphere on this stretch is completely different from the Grand Union and we much enjoyed the open Oxfordshire countryside – very lush at this time of year – in perfect conditions.
At Napton Junction we turned onto the Grand Union again and moored below the Calcutt locks where we enjoyed a peaceful afternoon.
Days run: 8.9 miles and 9 locks in 5.0 hours

2004-05-17T20:43:00.000+02:00

Nether Heyford to Welton
There is a spot near Brockhall Park where the canal runs within a hundred yards or so of both the M1 motorway and the London to Birmingham railway. Thus three centuries of transportation are represented: canals in the 18th, railways in the 19th and roads (or at least motorways) in the 20th.
Having chugged past this spot and watched the mad fools careering up the motorway we arrived at the Buckby Locks. As we were working up these we met an ex working boat coming down breasted up with a butty. This was Nb “Petrel”, a ‘Josher’ (named for Joshua Fellows, managing director of the famous canal carrying company Fellows, Morton and Clayton) built in 1914 and having had its original Bolinder engine replaced with a Lister HP2. The steerer reminded us that we had shared the Stoke Bruerne Locks with “Petrel” back in 2002 – I hope he remembered us for our efficiency rather than the reverse! On that occasion he demonstrated to us one of the trick knots used by the old working boatmen.
After heavy traffic over the weekend we now found ourselves almost alone and were easily able to moor at a spot before the Braunston Tunnel where we first moored in 1993 when my brother-in-law, Paul, and I brought Lady Elgar south for fitting out.
Days run: 8.6 miles and 7 locks in 4.8 hours

2004-05-16T17:57:00.000+02:00

We spent yesterday cleaning the boat and doing domestic duties. The canal was extremely busy with many boaters taking advantage of the lovely weather to give their craft a run.
This morning the steam narrow boat “President” passed us again, this time on her way home to the Black Country Museum – anyone interested in this historic craft can find details at: http://www.nb-president.org.uk/index.htm
Attracted by the thought of some live jazz I cycled into Bugbrooke at lunchtime and visited the Wharf Inn. Whilst mine host and his wife are not exactly a bundle of joy the beer is good and there is often live entertainment. Today’s combo had a front line of trumpet, tenor sax and electric guitar (doubling on banjo) with bass guitar and drums as the rhythm section. All middle-aged, they played what I suppose might be described as Mainstream. Starting with ‘Avalon’ they progressed through ‘See-See Rider’ to ‘Route 66’ via ‘Fly me to the Moon’ – you get the idea. Despite the overt presence of guitars and electronics I rather enjoyed the music and, particularly, the banter of the band and their louche group of cronies, who brought back memories of smoke-filled cellars long ago.

2004-05-14T21:08:00.000+02:00

We said goodbye to our friends Susie and Tony and chugged the couple of miles to one of our favourite moorings, just beyond Nether Heyford. Having moored up and cleaned the brasswork we walked into the village where there is an excellent butcher, also a mini-supermarket.
Although some of the modern housing in Heyford is a trifle twee the old part is definitely redolent of Jane Austen. As at Bugbrooke many of the houses employ the local sandstone and one is festooned with the most glorious display of wisteria. The sandstone church is a typical example of perpendicular gothic design.
We shall stay here for the weekend.
Days run: 2 miles (no locks) in 0.9 hours

2004-05-13T23:43:00.000+02:00

Today we had arranged to meet two old friends, Tony Gould and Susie Mason, who are cruising in their boats ‘Juspidorious’ and ‘Foxglove’ and are presently moored at Bugbrooke, just a few miles along the canal from Stoke Bruerne.
But first the tunnel.
Blisworth Tunnel was opened in 1805 and is 3057 yards long; it takes about 40 minutes to pass through it. There are several ventilation shafts and it is not uncommon for water to come streaming down these and soak the steerer! Most tunnels have their resident ghost: at Braunston the cries of the old-time working boatman hailing each other can often be heard and at Crick the tunnel is said to be haunted by a character called Kit Crewbucket. As far as I know, however, the Blisworth does not enjoy any spectral presences. Our only problem this morning was when our headlamp failed, plunging us into pitch darkness. Fortunately I was able to get it working again by cycling the switch several times. Meeting another boat is always a testing time as there is very little room to pass; having left before 0730 we had hoped to have an unimpeded passage but did, in fact, meet one boat very near the far end.
Having emerged into sunshine at Blisworth we now enjoyed an hour or so of very pleasant cruising before mooring at Bugbrooke (so named after a local stream) where we enjoyed catching up on news with our friends over a pleasant lunch at the Old Wharf Inn.
Day’s run: 6.8 miles (no locks) in 2.8 hours

2004-05-12T21:30:00.000+02:00

Fenny Stratford to Stoke Bruerne
Left Fenny at around 0830 to begin the long haul around Milton Keynes. Actually this is not as unpleasant as some people make out and uneventful travel with minimal traffic quite quickly got us to Wolverton at the north end of MK. Here we marvelled at the speed with which nature re-absorbs the follies of Man. The lofty, cavernous hulks of the derelict railway workshops which line the canal at Wolverton are now almost completely engulfed in undergrowth, but it is still possible to see, in one’s imagination, the bustle of activity which once took place here in the great days of steam.
Pleasant cruising in overcast conditions (despite the weather forecast) brought us to the famous Stoke Bruerne flight of locks. Here we encountered problems at the second lock up as British Waterways are working on the towpath below the locks and taking the spoil up in a barge to be emptied by a JCB on the lockside. This meant a significant wait and the passage of only one boat at a time through the lock. Fortunately for us, all the other traffic was coming down and we passed a stream of returning Wyvern hire boats. Having cleared the main group we were only just in time to prevent a straggler from filling the next-to-top lock as we approached it and at the top lock another Wyvern crew had succeeded in opening the paddles whilst we were in the (very short) pound; so we had to watch a lockful of water go to waste! I fear that I allowed my irritation to show but there was really no point in prolonged acrimony and we parted on friendly terms. Moored on the visitor moorings above the lock and near the Blisworth Tunnel, which we tackle tomorrow.
Day’s run: 18.3 miles and 8 locks in 7.5 hours

2004-05-11T20:48:00.000+02:00

Set off at 0800 in overcast conditions. A common tern was fishing the stretch and a heron rose majestically as we approached. Near Grove Lock a flock of feeding house martins swooped and dived around the boat.
For many years the lock cottage at Grove Lock was uninhabited and near-derelict but it always had a crudely-painted sign saying, “NOT for sale”. It has now been developed as a rather posh pub (Fullers beers) complete with outside terraces.
Reached the Leighton Buzzard moorings just after 0900 and found plenty of room there so the purser masterminded substantial re-victualling at Tesco’s whilst I supervised the loading of a case of Reserve Shiraz. Having restarted we found the crew of a Wyvern hire boat under instruction at Leighton Lock and travelled with them to Soulbury where we shared the three locks.
Leaving our companions to enjoy the pleasures of the “Three Locks” pub we pressed on to Fenny Stratford, where the lock is unusual in having a drop of a mere 13 inches – some say its very existence is due to a miscalculation during construction of the canal.
The visitor moorings at Fenny were unexpectedly crowded but we were able to slot in neatly about halfway along.
Day’s run: 10.7 miles and 8 locks in 5.1 hours

2004-05-10T20:31:00.000+02:00

Marsworth Bottom Lock to Slapton
Yesterday afternoon Nb “Clarice Elizabeth” moored in front of us. We met her crew on the Caldon Canal last summer and were able to regale each other with our doings since then. It’s this sort of encounter which makes travel on the waterways so enjoyable (for us at any rate).
Heard “Clarice Elizabeth” leave at 8 am this morning – much too early for us (and for them actually, but the boat they had paired-up with wanted to leave at that time).
After doing my usual checks we set off down the Seabrook and Ivinghoe locks. At Ivinghoe bottom lock we met a fussily immaculate narrow boat festooned with fenders whose effete crew insisted upon using a line (something we regard as quite unnecessary on the Grand Union). “When climbing in a double lock on your own you should always use a line”, quoth she. Well we don’t Madam! Don’t know why this prissiness irritates me so much but it does.
Moored at one of my favourite spots – near Bridge 118 and wonderfully remote – ready for an early morning assault on Tesco’s at Leighton tomorrow morning.
Along this stretch one can often see the lion that was carved in the chalk hills near Whipsnade Zoo in 1935.
Days run: 4.2 miles and 7 locks in 2.8 hours

2004-05-09T16:32:00.000+02:00

Set out from the boat this morning to get a Sunday paper. The OS map marked a footpath on the offside bank which seemed to provide a more direct route into Pitstone village so I thought I would try it. WRONG! Both I and the bike got completely bogged down in mud and by the time I finally scrambled through a hedge and on to the road I looked as though I had been sleeping rough for about a week! Only consolation was that the shop did actually have the Sunday Times so my journey was not in vain. Cleaned up the bike by brushing vigorously and dunking it in the canal.
On Friday I was able to save the life of a sheep which had somehow got onto its back. Apparently when this happens their internal organs sink downwards so that they can’t move and gas builds up with the result that they cannot breathe properly and eventually die. It was surprisingly easy to flip the animal over and she ran off down the field.

2004-05-07T20:45:00.000+02:00

Cowroast to Marsworth Bottom Lock
Made our way across the Tring summit and in sunshine for a wonder! The summit levels runs through a deep cutting which is heavily wooded and rather dank in wet weather but, in the sun and especially at this time of year it is certainly very pretty. We saw the flash of a kingfisher as it raced ahead of us.
At Bulbourne we found Nb “Mucky Duck” on the water point and agreed to share with them down the Marsworth Locks. In company with this excellent and highly experienced crew we simply flew down the locks and were sorry to part from them at the bottom. It was, however, essential that we stop for water and sewage disposal. They are on their way to the Wash, which they hope to cross.
Chugged on to a mooring where we know that there is an excellent TV signal as it is the Spanish Grand Prix this weekend. We shall stay here until Monday.
Day’s run: 4.7 miles and 9 locks in 3.2 hours

2004-05-06T21:16:00.000+02:00

Winkwell to Cowroast
At Winkwell swing bridge we met a boat from the “Muddy Ditches” i.e. the Middle Levels. He reported that the River Nene is in flood but assured us that it only takes about three days to subside so should be alright by the time we get there, assuming there is no more heavy rain of course. We feel somewhat unsure about tackling the Nene but will wait until we reach Gayton Junction before making a final decision.
Pleasant travel to Berko (Berkhamsted) where we moored briefly to visit Eastwood’s, the butcher near the lock, for a selection of their splendid sausages and then enjoyed a pint of London Pride at “The Boat”.
This section of canal is heavily locked and we usually employ a technique known as “lock wheeling” i.e. one person (myself) riding ahead on a bike to prepare the next lock. On the stretch between Berko and Cowroast every lock was against us so this procedure paid dividends.
Cowroast is on the Tring summit level of the Grand Union and marks the end of the long, 45-lock climb out of London and up into the Chilterns. After this brief respite we shall then begin to descend again at the Marsworth locks.
Our mooring operations at Cowroast were slightly hampered by a group of novice oarsmen under instruction but we are now pleasantly settled and enjoying a glass or three of Shiraz Mataro by the celebrated house of Banrock Station (S.E. Australia). Cheers!
Day’s run: 5.4 miles and 16 locks in 4.9 hours

2004-05-05T20:42:00.000+02:00

King’s Langley to Winkwell
Another day of bright intervals between heavy showers.
For those of us who remember the muddy towpaths and run-down paper mills at Apsley the vista there is now greatly improved: several new blocks of apartments have been sympathetically designed to blend with the canal environment and the whole area is greatly improved.
Having stopped at Sainsbury’s for supplies and taken on water above Apsley Lock we proceeded on our way towards Hemel Hempstead. Hemel looks attractive from the canal with its chestnut trees, greensward and a charming, Dutch-fronted building but the huge and rather uninteresting Kodak building tends to dominate the scene.
We were disappointed to find that there was no room on our proposed mooring at Boxmoor so steamed on to Winkwell and moored at a spot which we have often used before; it was here, some years ago, that a willow tree fell on us and we had to be cut free by British Waterways staff with chainsaws.

2004-05-04T20:50:00.000+02:00

Cassiobury Park to King’s Langley
On Bank Holiday Monday it rained without respite all day so we stayed where we were and watched the snooker from the Crucible.
This morning (Tuesday) we woke to find it raining once again and contemplated reversing the 200 or so yards back to the water point and then staying where we were. However, when we opened our rear doors we found that we were in the middle of a fishing match (unusual on the Tuesday after a Bank Holiday I would have thought – how do these guys get the time off work?) so decided to press on regardless.
Cassiobury Park bottom lock presents a very English scene: there is a lovely house beside the lock and, in high summer at any rate, the pleasant sound of leather on willow can be heard from the adjoining cricket ground.
We were sorry to see that the donkey is no longer at Hunton Bridge. He has lived alongside the bottom lock for as long as we have been coming this way but now he is gone and his field seems to be about to be built on.
At Hunton Bridge top lock we paired up with a single-hander and travelled in company with her as far as King’s Langley. Although perfectly competent she clearly had little interest in canal tradition: I noticed immediately that her boat had been decorated by Ron Hough, doyen of canal boat painters, but she cheerfully admitted that she had painted over his castles as she hated them. Whilst myself never the greatest fan of Ron’s I know plenty of people who are and privately felt that she had rather diminished the value of her boat by this piece of vandalism. I kept this view to myself however!
Talking of vandalism, it is sad to see that the old Ovaltine works are being demolished – another great reminder of the working days gone.
Having left our companion to the joys of the King’s Langley launderette we motored on the half mile or so to our usual mooring near the confluence with the River Gade.
A pleasant days cruising despite the shocking weather but, with no donkey and no Ovaltine works, a sad one too.
Day’s run: 4.8 miles and 9 locks in 3.4 hours.

2004-05-02T18:29:00.000+02:00

Denham to Cassiobury Park
By this morning (Sunday) the weather had improved considerably and we decided that it was definitely time to move.
We sauntered down the long straight to Widewater Lock, passing Harefield Marina, and then on to what is perhaps the prettiest lock on the Grand Union: Black Jack’s (so called because a ferocious negro used to terrorize passing boaters back in the nineteenth century, or so it is said!). This remote lock has a very twee little thatched cottage alongside it and, at this time of the year, some spectacular cherry blossom.
At Copper Mill we paired up with one of the many narrow boats called “Narrow Escape” and travelled with them as far as Batchworth where we stopped at Tesco’s whilst they were intent on a visit to the White Bear.
At Cassio Bridge Lock we met a group of pleasant but highly irresponsible young men on a hire boat out of Packet Boat Marina. Having kindly waved us in they proceeded to jump down on to the cill whilst the lock was filling and then clambering up the gates to get out again. We formed the definite opinion that they had been looking upon the Stella Artois whilst it was crimson!
Moored for the night a little further on in Cassiobury Park – a spot where we often used to moor but have not, I find, done so since 1999.
Day’s run 8.5 miles and 9 locks in 4.7 hours.

2004-05-01T17:02:00.000+02:00

As we are in no particular hurry and the weather was very unfriendly we decided to stay on our pleasant mooring hard by Denham Country Park and enjoy the local walks.
I cycled into Uxbridge today to get some new OS maps of the Peterborough area.
Pleased to report that our generator is now working better than it has done for some time.

2004-04-29T20:43:00.000+02:00

Iver to Denham
On our way at last! Pretty foul weather, cold and wet, but good to be on the move again after a winter spent on the mooring.
Left our berth at 0930 and pottered down to take on diesel then off down the Slough Arm to Cowley Peachey.Here we were alerted by a steam whistle to the imminent arrival of the famous steam narrow boat “President” on her way to Little Venice for the Canalway Cavalcade. Sure enough she appeared around the corner in a cloud of steam, with our friend Martin Burke at the helm of the butty “Kildare” and all the crew tricked out in traditional garb.
Uxbridge has changed beyond recognition since we first passed this way. I rather miss the atmosphere of gentle decay which it used to have – still plenty of moored boats though.
Beyond Uxbridge the countryside becomes more open and we proceeded in solitary splendour to Denham where, having ascended Denham Deep, deepest lock on the Grand Union, we moored alongside Denham Country Park as we have so often done before.
Not exactly a taxing day: day’s run = 6.1 miles and 3 locks in 3.0 hours

2004-04-28T22:42:00.000+02:00

We have spent the day checking equipment and loading stores (including good supplies of grog) and are now ready to leave tomorrow morning.

2004-04-27T22:12:00.000+02:00

Feeling absolutely knackered after spending all day crunched up over the generator, but the good news is its now working again. The sheared bolt proved very obstinate to extract but I eventually got it out in bits. Reassembly also difficult but much helped by a flexible shaft screwdriver which I bought specially for the job. I also had to re-braze the sump extractor pump which had fractured. We now plan to spend tomorrow tidying up the boat ready to leave early Thursday morning. Hope to get to King’s Langley for the weekend.

2004-04-25T19:34:00.000+02:00

In the course of servicing our generator I discovered a serious problem: a bolt which retains the air-cleaner assembly has sheared and subsequent vibration has caused other damage. This will take a day or two to fix so we have had to delay our departure, however we still hope to get away this week.
Only compensating factor is the glorious weather!

2004-04-20T18:16:00.000+02:00

Having enjoyed a week’s motoring in France and a brief family visit to Shropshire we are now busy preparing the boat for our cruise. This mainly involves the usual engine chores: changing oil and filters etc. as well as polishing up our brasswork after the Winter.
We plan to slip our moorings here at Iver on Monday (26th April) and head north up the Grand Union.

2004-03-14T16:38:00.000+01:00

Narrowboat Lady Elgar
Summer Cruise 2004

Lady Elgar is a 60 foot steel narrowboat, that is to say a boat of 6ft 10ins beam designed for the English canal system with its narrow (7ft) locks. We are Trevor and Mary Pavitt and we have owned Lady Elgar for ten years. She was built to our own specification and we have lived on her since 1996. During this time we have cruised the majority of the canals and river which make up the Inland Waterways of Great Britain.
We plan to set out in mid April from our base on the Slough Arm of the Grand Union canal and I hope to post regular reports of our progress for the interest of our friends and fellow boaters.