Lady Elgar Log

Cowroast to King’s Langley
Every day now seems to have an elegiac quality about it. As we chug down the South Grand Union for the last time almost every lock holds some memory for us but my mood of nostalgic regret was tempered by having to work hard helping our new friends on Nb Shiraz learn the ropes. They are completely new to the canals and set out from Braunston at the weekend with the intention of reaching Apsley by Thursday; rather an ambitious target for a couple, no longer young, who have not handled a narrow boat before. We joined up with them at the Soulbury Three and they have been immensely grateful for our help although I have to say that they have demonstrated considerably ability (although not great nimbleness of foot!). Having ourselves received a huge amount of help and advice from other boaters over the years we are only too pleased to reciprocate now that we are quite experienced.
Having had an excellent meal (including a bottle of champagne) with Ian and Hilary we set off at 0730 this morning to tackle the heavily locked section of canal down through Northchurch to Berkhamsted and then on to Hemel Hempstead.
At the Dudswell Locks we met the team of Wyvern boats on a corporate team-building exercise whom we had seen setting out at Leighton. They were now on their way back having, they said, greatly enjoyed themselves. Presumably they are now working like a well-oiled machine!
We had a good run down to Berko and then pressed on to Boxmoor where I Heard the sound of a Lister JP2 and the Josher “Vulcan” appeared, a famous old boat but now somewhat in need of refurbishment. She was on her way to Braunston (where else?).
We took on water and disposed of various forms of waste at Apsley before saying goodbye to Shiraz and her crew.
Dropped down the Nash Mills locks and moored, as we nearly always do, near the confluence with the River Gade at King’s Langley.
Definitely one of our harder days – I was very glad to get into the shower!
Day’s run: 9.1 miles and 24 locks in 7.8 hours

Slapton to Cowroast
A good day but a tiring one!
Set out in company with Ian and Hilary on Nb Shiraz and travelled all the way to Cowroast with them.
Having passed through the Ivinghoe and Seabrook locks we arrived at Marsworth where the main flight of locks is always rather hard work. Mary and Ian performed the delicate feat of going into several of them together (without being breasted-up). At one point I watched as they drifted apart coming round the corner, closed in on each other again and made a perfect entry into the lock without so much as brushing it – poetry in motion! Even a knowledgeable gongoozler conceded that it was “a nice piece of driving”.
Having got to the top of the locks we crossed the Tring summit for 18th and, sadly, the last time.
Moored at Cowroast ready for an assault on the long series of locks which carry the canal down to Apsley where our companions Ian and Hilary need to be by Thursday.
Day’s run: 8.9 miles and 16 locks in 6.2 hours.

It has been pointed out to me that Cosgrove to Fenny Compton is a pretty long day’s run! Of course I meant Fenny *Stratford*; alcohol takes its toll!
Incidentally I can reveal to you that the affix Fenny comes from the Old English Fennig, meaning marshy – not a lot of people know that!
We enjoyed our weekend. Karen left us on Friday night but we had an unexpected visit on Sunday from old boating friends who are over here from their home in Spain. Fortunately we had a joint of pork in the fridge so Mary was able to knock up an excellent roast lunch for us all and much good chat followed.

Fenny Stratford to Slapton
Having taken on water at Fenny we passed through Stoke Hammond Lock and enjoyed pleasant cruising to the three locks at Soulbury. Here we met Ian and Hilary, a rather nice South African couple on their boat Shiraz. They are inexperienced but very keen to learn and they followed us to Leighton where we all visited Tesco.
Just after we had moored at Leighton, three boats from the nearby Wyvern hire base came past with large crews on board. Apparently they were all on a “corporate team-building” exercise and were going to Berkhamsted and back. It’s easy to sneer – especially if, like me, you are long retired – but I actually think the two days on a narrow boat living together and doing the Marsworth and Berko locks is probably a very good test of one’s ability to work as a team and would be beneficial to their company.
As on our way up we moored below Slapton Lock on the 65 foot length of Armco which we have always regarded as our personal property!
Day’s run: 10.7 miles and 8 locks in 5.6 hours.

Cosgrove to Fenny Stratford
An easy-paced day. Left our pleasant mooring at Cosgrove, sauntered down to Wolverton and began the long haul around Milton Keynes. Fortunately the wind has now dropped and we enjoyed quite a bit of sunshine.
Stopped at Tesco’s by Bridge 71 where Mary and Karen formed a provisioning party. They returned heavily laden with vegetables to ward off scurvy; also plentiful supplies of Stella Artois and Grenache Shiraz.
The run around Milton Keynes is not unpleasant but one could hardly call it exciting. There seemed to be a lot more moored boats than we have seen before but moving traffic was very light indeed with only three or four boats passing us all morning. We reached Fenny at about 1400.

Whilst on the move we did the washing. As a matter of interest we have a standard domestic washing machine which is powered by our built-in, diesel generator. The only problem is that, because of our very limited water tankage we have to be sure that there is a water point handy somewhere along our route. Nevertheless, it sure as Hell beats having to look for a launderette!
Karen and Indy leave us this evening and we shall spend the weekend here.
Day’s run: 11.2 miles and 0 locks in 4.3 hours

Nether Heyford to Cosgrove
I am told that the wind today was only “moderate to fresh” but, as far as we were concerned it was a howling gale! No rain however.
We made our way to Gayton Junction, where the water point is round the corner on the Northampton Arm. Despite the wind Mary did a brilliant turn and reversed neatly onto it. Having done the business we motored on to the Blisworth Tunnel where, I am pleased to say, our headlamp behaved faultlessly. Met only one boat coming the other way.
At Stoke Bruerne Mary and Karen insisted on operating the locks as I have slightly dished my back so I was again able to enjoy the luxury of taking the boat down this popular flight.
After that we enjoyed uneventful travel – apart from a few problems with the wind – and light traffic to Cosgrove where we moored on the extensive and pleasant visitor moorings below the lock.
Day’s run: 15.9 miles and 8 locks in 6.7 hours

(note: our timings are taken from my engine hours meter so represent the actual time the engine was running – this includes periods when we are stationary with the engine running, as when filling with water).

Talk about fair-weather sailors! We had intended reaching Cosgrove today but, faced with the prospect of seven hours in a howling gale and siling rain we quickly made the decision to stay put for the day.
Our friends Tony and Susie popped round for coffee this morning. Otherwise, apart from visiting the local shops, we did very little.
Yesterday afternoon I got my meter out and did a thorough check on the wiring of our tunnel light. The problem turned out to be caused not, as I had suspected, by the switch, but by the fitting of an incorrectly rated fuse which had become degraded.
We shall *have* to move tomorrow because we urgently need both water and sewage disposal.

Welton to Nether Heyford
Perfect boating weather this morning: sunny, not too hot with no wind.
Uneventful travel to Norton Junction where, with no other boat in sight, we set off alone down the 7 Buckby locks. Because Karen is with us she and Mary were able to operate the locks thus giving me a chance to steer, a rare treat.
At the Wolverhampton 21 we were treated to a display of very good canal manners; here we met an example of the opposite. Near the bottom we saw a boat ahead of us but, despite notices at the top lock entreating all boaters to share where possible for water-conservation reasons, he did not wait. When Mary and Karen walked down to the final lock he was fuming because, as often happens first thing in the morning at Buckby, water was streaming over the top of the gates and he was having trouble opening them. For some reason he seemed to hold us responsible for this situation. Because of his abusive attitude Mary and Karen did not feel disposed to help but left him and his wife to their own devices.
When we ourselves came down we passed said gentleman angrily mooring his narrow-beam Dutch barge (an oxymoron I fancy – the term that is, not the bloke!) but later, when he caught us up and we let him through he waved cheerfully and gave us a beatific smile so obviously he had recovered his composure.
We made our way at an easy pace to Nether Heyford where we moored on our favourite spot. Our friends Susie and her partner Tony – who owns a gorgeous, Bolinder-engined Josher – are moored around the corner and have promised us sausage and mash for supper.
Day’s run: 8.6 miles and 7 locks in 4.0 hours.

Willoughby - Welton
Yesterday (Sunday) we moved the half mile or so from our Barby mooring to Willoughby Bridge which is a convenient spot to meet visitors. Our friend Karen and her miniature Schnauzer, Indy, are spending a few days with us. Karen lives on a boat but seldom gets the opportunity to cruise so we always welcome her as crew.
Because of the very heavy passing traffic over the weekend we decided to start early in order to take on water in busy Braunston – a centre of canal activity – and get up the locks before the rush. As it turned out traffic was quite light all day.
Just below the top lock at Braunston we found a 65-foot Wyvern hire boat firmly jammed across the canal. Apparently they had been told that they could turn in the pound (something, I have to say, that we would not have attempted) but it had clearly all gone wrong. As a good deal pf heaving and poling failed to shift the boat we eventually hitched a line to our T-stud and, by reversing hard, were able to pull them off.
No sooner had this problem been solved than another arose in the Braunston Tunnel. Regular readers of my blog will remember that our tunnel light failed in the Blisworth earlier in our cruise; this now happened again only this time frantically cycling of the rotary switch did not work. As another boat was approaching we did not have a lot of time; Mary and Karen leapt out with torches but fortunately I was able to get the lamp working again by fiddling with the socket. I shall perform a thorough check of the wiring before we reach Blisworth!
Indy, who has not been on a moving boat before, has behaved very well and shows every sign of being a natural boating dog. He is quite happy to sit or lie on the roof and particular likes perching himself on the end of a lock beam to watch us all working.
As we plan to meet friends at Nether Heyford tomorrow we moored beyond the tunnel and relaxed for the rest of the day.
Not exactly a testing session but not without incident either.
Day’s run: 4.9 miles and 6 locks in 3.2 hours.

Hillmorton to Barby
Just a short hop today to take us to one of our favourite moorings: hard by what we call “The Naughty Boys Club” (Onley Young Offenders Institution).
It’s a stiff walk up to Barby village but I always like to do it so as to have a look at the (obviously home-made) bench, decorated in New Age/Celtic style, which commemorates “Nightmare” (Simon Thompson) who: “ended his travelling here with his much loved dog Smirnoff”.
I once asked a local resident about this and he told me that back in 1997 a group of New Agers had taken up residence along the bridle path. They seem actually to have been quite popular in the village (although not with the local farmer) as they spent money in both shop and pub. It was this latter that led to Thompson and Smirnoff’s demise as, after returning from that establishment he apparently knocked over the oil lamp in his van and incinerated himself.
I always find this wayside memorial to a young life strangely moving.

Many boats have been displaying the Cross of St George this week – I suspect that there must be some sort of international sporting event in progress!
Day’s run: 3.7 miles and no locks in 1.3 hours

I hope that my comments in these reports will not be seen as an attempt to disparage hirers and hire boats. Like most boat owners, we ourselves spent several very happy holidays on hire boats and we are aware that their crews are often more experienced than a lot of private boat owners. In our experience the crews of hire boats are usually courteous, polite and anxious to conform to canal conventions whereas private owners sometimes appear to consider themselves a cut above everyone else. In the matter of going too fast past moored boats we certainly think that private boats are the worst culprits (although hire boats from Kate Boats of Warwick seem to be mounting a challenge).
This matter of going by too fast can certainly be a great annoyance, especially when one is cooking, but there is also an obligation on the moorer to tie up properly. We have sometimes seen people gesticulating angrily at passing boats when there own craft are secured with no more than bits of string and old knicker elastic!

Hawkesbury Junction to Hillmorton Top Lock
For many years the Coventry and North Oxford canals were not physically connected. This was because they were run by separate companies who each jealously guarded their own water. The two canals used to run side-by-side, parallel to each other and goods had to be trans-shipped from one canal to the other. When this ridiculous situation was eventually resolved by constructing a stop lock it was found that the Oxford was six inches higher than the Coventry, thus the Oxford Canal Company had to endure the galling sight of its water flowing into the Coventry.
The 180° turn at Hawkesbury which resulted from the connection of the two canals has always presented a problem and continues to do so today, especially when there is a high wind. We certainly used to find it quite difficult in our early days but now hardly think about it and today Mary did one of her usual immaculate turns.
The journey from Hawkesbury to Rugby is lock-free and not particularly interesting so she retired below to do the ironing while I steered.
At Rugby we made a necessary but tedious visit to Tesco and had lunch on board before starting off again towards Hillmorton where we shot up the paired locks (that is to say two separate locks in tandem rather than a double lock as on the Grand Union).
From now on it is double locks all the way home. Can this really be the very last time I shall ever operate a single lock?
Day’s run: 15.6 miles and 4 locks in 5.9 hours

Atherstone to Hawkesbury Junction
Talking of getting our locking technique down to a fine art, we had an excellent run up the Atherstone locks this morning. This is a pleasant, although rather slow-filling, set of locks which takes the Coventry Canal from rural, and rather up-market Grendon to urban and distinctly down-market Atherstone.
Because there were more boats than we have ever seen moored at the bottom we set off at 0705 and, for a wonder, did not meet another boat until very near the top and had the majority of locks in our favour. With the aid of the bike we raced up the locks and I often had time to take a breather. As Mary remarked: “Confucius he say, ‘man on bike can go faster than woman on boat!’”
The only delay was when I heard a voice shouting, “’elp! ‘elp!” beside Lock 5. I leapt onto a convenient tree stump and peered over the wall to see an old lady who yelled, “I need ‘elp. I want to go ‘ome!” I noticed a small group of old dears watching with interest (possibly in the hope of seeing their colleague make her escape) but Matron (if that’s what they are called these days) soon appeared and shepherded the old darling back to her chair. I was reminded of the notice seen on a boat last year: “Be nice to your children – they’ll choose the nursing home!”
We reached the top of the locks to find a queue already developing. Incidentally Lady Elgar has now done more than 4000 locks whilst in our ownership.
A very pleasant run in warm sunshine took us past the famous Gilbert Brothers “Charity Dock” at Bedworth – still, I am delighted to see, a complete shambles. Obviously it has resisted all attempts to “rationalise” it.
Finally arrived at Hawkesbury Junction where we were lucky to be able to snick into a space.
Hawkesbury was apparently known to the old boatmen as “Sutton Stop” and those boaters, of whom there are many, who wish to affect a deep knowledge of canal lore often call it this. I was interested to hear the late Doris Collins, one of the last surviving boatwomen from the working days, refer to it as “’awkesbury”. She should know – her son was born on a boat there!
Day’s run: 12.8 miles and 11 locks in 6.2 hours.

Fradley to Grendon (Bottom of Atherstone Locks)
At first sight, travelling in a straight line would seem to be the easiest part of canal boating; it is going up and down locks that worries most novices. In our early days of boating it was not until long after we had got our locking technique down to a fine art that we realized the importance of being able to steer a good course, and that the best course is not necessarily in the middle of the canal.
To move efficiently in a straight line a boat needs the water to be able to move down each side of the boat equally freely. As the bottom of most canals is saucer-shaped it is quite easy to get too far to one side and thus cause unequal pressure (or counter-flow) on the sides of the boat which will then cause it to slew to one side. Thus a good steerer will always stay “in the channel” where he or she has fingertip control of the tiller, no forward momentum is lost by unnecessary use of the rudder and the engine is at its most efficient. Generally speaking, if you have to fight the tiller you are doing something wrong!
Because there were only four locks in the twenty or so miles we covered today we had ample opportunity to demonstrate to ourselves the efficacy of this technique and we made effortless progress. Our only major hold-up occurred at the Glascote Locks where a couple of crews were demonstrating a degree of good-natured ineptitude, however all was eventually sorted out and we were on our way again to the bottom of the Atherstone flight of locks – one of our favourite moorings.
The best thing about yesterday was the glorious weather; today was cloudy and much colder, but the boating was a lot better!
Day’s run: 20.4 miles and 4 locks in 7.8 hours

Tixall to Fradley
Spent a pleasant weekend at Tixall although we were somewhat annoyed when a hire boat scraped along the entire length of our boat before discovering that he could not get in. He then asked us to move back, which we would have done in the first place had he asked beforte attempting it. Did it with a rather bad grace I’m afraid, particularly as we were in the middle of supper.. On both Saturday and Sunday nights there were over 30 boats moored button to button, at Tixall, a far cry from the way it used to be like.
Today we started at 0715 and had a good run into Rugeley where we took on provisions at Safeway and I got a much needed haircut.
The run between Rugeley and Handsacre is twisty and often shallow with many bridgeholes. It also includes the Armitage Tunnel – actually no longer a tunnel but too narrow to pass so a natural bottleneck. The traffic on this section was heavier than anything we have ever known on the canals – even the Llangollen – and the school holidays have not even started yet! The new marina at King’s Bromley already houses 100 boats and is, I understand, being enlarged to take another 100. What with this and the huge number of timeshare boats out of nearby Alvecote the whole area around Fradley Junction is becoming grossly congested.
With one boat builder reputedly flooding the market with 600 new boats a year and very few old ones being scrapped or removed from the system we do wonder when saturation point will be reached; there is certainly little pleasure to be had from cruising in these conditions.
Having said that, we are comfortably moored above Shade House Lock in the company of friends who we met a couple of years ago on the Grand Union.
Day’s run: 12.7 miles and 3 locks in 6.2 hours

Gailey to Tixall Wide
There is a lady on the South Grand Union (I will be no more specific than that) who clearly regards herself as the fount of all knowledge on canal matters, despite the fact that her boat apparently never moves. This lady is not averse to passing on little gems of wisdom to passing boaters and I remember that on one occasion when we complained to her of the adverse affects of the wind she advised us that we should “use the wind.” Ever since then, when faced with a howling gale which is blowing us halfway across the Cut Mary and I remind each other to, “use the wind!”
In point of fact the high sides and low speed of narrow boats makes them extremely difficult to handle in even a moderate wind and I have never found a canal boater, however experienced, who has any real answer to the problem apart from improvisation. When faced with these conditions, as we were today, we abandon our normal policy of letting the boat ride gently as we wait for the lock to fill and use a line to hold it to the bollards. This takes a bit longer which, combined with the fact that every lock was against and, unlike yesterday, there was a lot of boat traffic, accounts for the slowness of our days run.
At Filance Lock, Penkridge we came across a minor altercation between a lady single-hander who flatly refused to accept any assistance and the skipper of a hotel boat who, after fifteen minutes of waiting was getting somewhat impatient. Eventually all was sorted out and we were on our way again.
A large sheet of polythene on our propeller delayed us at Stafford but we eventually reached our destination: Tixall Wide.
This stretch is unique on the canal system and is more akin to the Norfolk Broads than a narrow canal. Apparently it exists because Thomas Clifford of Tixall Hall would only tolerate the canal passing through his land provided it did not impinge upon his view from the hall. Thus the canal company was forced to “landscape” almost a mile of canal. The resulting stretch is most attractive and has become an extremely popular mooring spot with modern leisure boaters. Fortunately we were able to find a space there and are comfortably settled opposite the stately ruins of a Tudor gatehouse which lies amongst the trees opposite.
Day’s run: 12.4 miles and 12 locks in 7.4 hours

Compton to Gailey
“Bridge 59” turned out to be excellent, if a little pricey.
This morning we slept-in after our exertions yesterday. We then walked up to the local Spa supermarket to do some re-provisioning.
Upon our return Dave Bradley, another old friend from Compton days, came strolling along the towpath with his dog so we stopped for a chat with him. Eventually got away about 1030 and ascended Compton Lock. This is said to have been the first lock constructed by James Brindley – in the 1760s – and thus the model for all other narrow locks on the canal system. Lady Elgar first ascended it on 17th July 1993 and, as we gently chugged along in the sunshine this morning I recalled that exciting day when, after many months of waiting, the boat was at last on its way and heading south.
On that trip Lady Elgar was in a very basic state. My brother-in-law, Paul, had gallantly volunteered to act as steerer and together we took the boat down to Iver on the Slough Arm of the Grand Union. On that occasion we moored for the night at Boggs Lock; we contemplated doing the same today but we are now rather wary of mooring in short pounds (if a lock drains you can be left high and dry, often at a very odd angle!) so we stopped at a spot where we have moored previously, just before Gailey. Excellent TV picture including digital – pity there’s nothing on worth watching!
A most pleasant and relaxed day – canal travel at its best.
Day’s run: 9.7 mile and 1 lock in 3.5 hours

It’s a strange fact that, although Lady Elgar was built at Compton which is on the Staffs & Worcs Canal and within a couple of miles of Aldersley Junction at the bottom of the “Wolverhampton Twenty-one” we have never worked this flight of locks. It is, indeed, probably the only one of the famous flights that we have never done. Today we corrected that omission.
We started out at 0715 from the Black Country Museum in order to get down the “21” in good time. As we made the journey via Tipton and Coseley we were aware of a boat behind us; this turned out to be Nb “Copperkins II” an old friend but with a different crew from the one we normally meet (it’s a shared ownership boat). Elaine and Peter turned out to be amiable and highly efficient and followed us down most of the flight.
Many of the locks on the BCN are protected by special locks which prevent vandals from drawing the paddles and draining the pounds. To release these locks it is necessary to use a barrel key which all boaters know as a “handcuff key” but which British Waterways prefer, rather pedantically, to call a “water conservation key”. All the locks of the “21” are fitted with these mechanism but, unlike those at Wigan, these are extremely easy to release and re-set.
Generally speaking we enjoyed the “21” and got down in about 3 hours but I cannot deny being rather knackered but the time we reached the bottom.
The whole area we were now in is full of memories for me: Lock 19 of the “21” where our beloved dog Elgar once fell in; Aldersley Junction which we have passed through many times; the yard at Compton where I spent so many happy hours yarning with Dave Elwell or working on the boat back in the early 1990s and Wightwick Mill Lock the first Lady Elgar ever negotiated and which we now went through on our way to wind (turn round).
Having been welcomed back to her birthplace by Dave, Carol and the Old Man we now moored Lady Elgar opposite the dock which used to be the berth of the lovely Staffs & Worcs inspection launch, Lady Hatherton.
Relaxing from our labours we are enjoying a small alcoholic libation and think that we may eschew the chip shop in favour of the rather posh-looking “Bridge 59” restaurant.
Day’s run: 12.1 miles and 24 locks in 7.3 hours

Oozells Street Loop to The Black Country Museum, Tipton.

Ah, the BCN! Loved by many; hated by as many more. Personally I have always liked it, being attracted by its dilapidated buildings and decaying factories. At one time there was a mass of small arms and basins but many of these have now been filled-in with only an arch of brickwork to indicate where they once were.
The BCN is disliked mainly because of its lack of pretty scenery (although there is a surprising amount of this even in the very industrial parts), the high incidence of fouled propellers due to the use of the canal as a rubbish tip by local residents, and for what is perceived as the ever-present threat of vandalism and violence. It is true that, on some parts of the BCN, regular visits to the weed hatch are required and we have variously pulled out a ten-foot length of carpet, yards of electric cable and a complete rubber dinghy as well as the ubiquitous rope and polythene. On one occasion we even managed to get a car tyre neatly encircling the propeller and almost impossible to remove. Personally I think that these difficulties merely add to the challenge of canal boating.
The threat of violence from the local youth undoubtedly exists but can be minimised by setting off – and mooring – early, preferably at recommended mooring sites.
After a reasonably quiet night in Birmingham we set off down the Main Line towards Wolverhampton. Instead of following the straighter and more direct New Main Line we ascended the Smethwick locks and then turned down Brindley’s original canal – the Old Main Line. At Spon Lane we saw an extraordinary building: a factory, but more like a red brick church with its high-pointed gothic arches and spire. The tell-tale chimney was discreetly positioned at the rear, the whole structure clearly dedicated to that great Victorian God: Industry. Now crumbling it will no doubt soon be demolished.
A landmark of more recent origin which catches the eye is the rather splendid Smethwick Mosque whose white cupola and abundant glittering gold enrichments can be seen for miles around
For some distance the path of the OML intertwines with that of the M5 Motorway. There is some sense of grandeur as one weaves between the vast concrete pillars which convey the motorway high above but also, in the dusty, grassless wilderness, a sense of Orwellian desolation.
Eventually able to break clear of the motorway into a more rural landscape we made our way to the Black Country Museum. The exhibition here occupies a large tract of land. Its stated aim is: “to preserve and portray the rich history of the area for today’s and future generations”. This it certainly succeeds in doing and we spent a fascinating couple of hours exploring the accoutrements of everyday life in the period from 1850 to 1950. Eventually tiring we repaired to the public bar of the “Bottle and Glass” (complete with sawdust) for a pint of local bitter. The landlady advised us that our boat was moored within range of a bridge which is frequently used by local youngsters to amuse themselves by hurling bricks and bottles at the moored boats! Fortunately we were able to reverse back to a safer spot.
Day’s run: 8.3 miles and 3 locks in 4.0 hours.

Earlswood to Oozells Street Loop, Birmingham
We travelled from Earlswood to King’s Norton, the junction with the Worcester and Birmingham Canal, without meeting a single boat. This section of the North Stratford is now surrounded by heavy vegetation but, at the King’s Norton end there are still signs of the industry that once flourished here. At Lifford the swing bridge lies decaying at the side of the canal and the old chemical works now has grass and foliage sprouting up through its crumbling brickwork. No doubt the old buildings and the iron-banded chimney will soon be demolished, to be replaced by anonymous modern housing but at the moment the spot still has its ghosts and it is possible to imagine the hubbub and activity as hoards of workers, either on foot or on bicycles, streamed across the bridge whilst the factory hooter sounded and boats waited impatiently to pass.
When approaching Birmingham by way of the Grand Union one is alerted to the proximity of a large metropolis by the increasing amounts of graffiti and an accumulated layer of plastic bottles, bags, beer cans and other rubbish on the surface of the canal; all the detritus of the consumer society in fact. The approach from Worcester, past Bourneville, Birmingham University and Edgbaston, is more pleasant and one is almost surprised to reach, quite suddenly, Worcester Bar and Broad Street Bridge at the very centre of the city.
Worcester Bar, which is a narrow stop-lock alongside Gas Street (so called because it was the first street to have full gas lighting) marks the beginning of the BCN (Birmingham Canal Navigations), a network of small canals which used to supply the very many factories and manufacturing businesses which made this great city so famous throughout the world.
The contrast between the quietness of our isolated mooring at Earlswood and the bustle and noise of Central Birmingham could not be greater and is yet another demonstration of the great diversity to be found on the canals of England.
We normally moor at Gas Street but the advent of a huge block of nightclubs has made this spot even noisier than before and this time we have been able to find a more secluded mooring around the corner in the Oozells Street Loop, a section of the Birmingham Old Main Line which was made redundant when Telford created his “New Main Line”.
Day’s run: 12.9 miles with no locks in 5.3 hours

A pleasant day yesterday with a visit from the family and a brief cruise down to the winding-hole (turning point) at Hockley Heath.
Today we are sitting around in lovely sunshine at this very quiet and leafy spot reading the Sunday papers.
It’s a hard life but someone has to do it I suppose!

Hopwood to Earlswood
Just a short run today to get us to a spot where it is convenient for the family to visit.
Having started at 0730 we got through the Wast Hill Tunnel and past King’s Norton Junction without problems and then found ourselves back on the Stratford Canal again, but this time at the top end where the surroundings are much less rural.
As we chugged southwards we met the first scouts of what soon became a swarm of northbound hire boats all making their way back to base at the end of the school half-term holiday. At Earlswood Bridge, a very awkward one, we had to hold in the shallows whilst no less than five boats came through nose to tail. Released at last we threaded our way down a narrow channel between the moored boats at Earlswood Motor Yacht Club and finally moored at a spot which we have used before and which is handy for the road.
I set off on a foraging expedition by bike and was delighted to find that Wedge’s, the excellent little home bakery and produce shop is not only still in existence but apparently flourishing.
Our grand-daughter leaves us tomorrow and we shall probably make a short excursion to turn round before mooring again for the weekend. Next week we head for central Birmingham, the Black Country Museum and the flight of locks known as the “Wolverhampton Twenty-One”.
Day’s run: 10.4 miles with no locks in 3.9 hours

The weather today was perfect for serious locking: bright and sunny but not too hot. The Tardebigge flight climbs up through the beautiful, rolling Worcestershire landscape and the garish yellow of the rape flower in the surrounding fields has now given way to a verdant green.
We set off at 0730 but still found every lock against us. The reason for this became clear when, about halfway up, we caught up with a single-hander. Although not highly experienced he was making good progress and did not really delay us, especially when I persuaded him to let me close his top gates for him.
Our grand-daughter, Millie, was a great help. At age 10 the paddles on the Worcs & Birmingham are too stiff for her to wind up but she can let them down and also swing the gates so we got an excellent system worked out. We got up the whole flight of 30 locks in about three and a half hours so I should think the bogie time for a good young crew with reasonable luck would be about three hours. Although quite tiring, the whole experience was highly enjoyable and very different from the last time we did it in 1997, when the rain was siling down and, for some now inexplicable reason, it took us five hours.
There is an historic spot at the top of the Tardebigge locks. It was here, during World War II that Tom Rolt – author of the seminal book “Narrow Boat” – lay for several years moored in his narrow boat “Cressy” and it was here that Robert Aickman visited him and they agreed to form the Inland Waterways Association. A historic spot indeed and there is a small pillar with a plaque to commemorate the event.
At Tardebigge Top Lock we met a highly experienced and affable crew who had had the misfortune to be stoned (in the sense of having stones hurled at them!) when entering the Wast Hill Tunnel last night. This, unfortunately, is an increasingly common problem and the area between Wast Hill and King’s Norton Junction has long been known as “Bandit Country” (the “bandits” usually being aged between 8 and 14). We shall start early in the morning in the hope of clearing the area before the little b****s get up! Incidentally, having moored in the middle of London, Birmingham, Manchester and Leeds the only place we have had trouble is at that centre of Culture and the Arts: BATH. There we both had stones dropped on us and the boat noisily rocked in the middle of the night.
We are moored at Hopwood where there are good moorings although with much vehicular noise – only to be expected as we enter a busy commercial and industrial area.
Day’s run: 7.5 miles and 30 locks in 6.5 hours

Tibberton Wharf to Stoke Pound
We stayed at Tibberton for the Bank Holiday weekend. Our son Dan and his girlfriend Jenny came on Monday bringing our grand-daughter, Millie, who is to stay with us for a few days. Our meal at “The Bridge” was acceptable, although not outstanding. As always we were able to indulge in much gossip with other boaters.
As we had an important letter to send by special delivery I had to visit the Post Office in Tibberton this morning and we did not get going until about 0915.
Travel to the Astwood Locks was largely uneventful although we found much congestion at Hanbury Wharf where the old Droitwich Canal (now being restored) joins the Worcester and Birmingham.
The locks which carry the W&B up to the Birmingham level used to be known to the working boatmen as the “thirty and twelve” that is to say the two flights of six – Astwood and Stoke – followed by the great Tardegigge flight of 30 locks. We have elected to do this section in two stages and, having completed “the twelve”, are moored opposite the “Queen’s Head” at Stoke Pound ready for an assault on “the thirty” tomorrow.
Day’s run: 8.0 miles and 12 locks in 4.8 hours